Here are some images of AMT/Round 2 models of the U.S.S. Enterprise NCC - 1701 - D from Star Trek The Next Generation.
From Wikipedia"
The Galaxy class is a fictional class of starship in the science fiction franchise Star Trek. The most notable Galaxy-class starship is the USS Enterprise-D, the primary setting of Star Trek:The Next Generation.
The Galaxy-class model was designed by Andrew Probert for Star Trek: The Next Generation. Interiors were designed by Probert and Herman Zimmerman during the first season. Richard D. James designed and rebuilt the sets for the remaining six years, while Zimmerman returned for Star Trek Generations.
Within the series it is stated that design and construction of the Galaxy-class began in the 2340s, with the first ships being commissioned in the 2360s. According to dialog in the Next Generation episodes "11001001" and "Booby Trap", designers of the USS Enterprise-D included Orfil Quinteros and Leah Brahms. Star Trek creator Gene Roddenberry stated that only six Galaxy-class starships had been constructed;, in the Star Trek: Deep Space Nine episodes "Sacrifice of Angels" and "Favor the Bold" no fewer than nine are seen as part of a single "Fleet" and by this point in the series the Galaxy-class USS Enterprise-D, USS Yamato, and USS Odyssey had all been destroyed. The Star Trek: The Next Generation Technical Manual provides a possible canonical workaround by claiming that, while only six ships were ordered initially, Starfleet reserved the right to procure six more at a later date. Indeed it was likely a necessity given the increase in hostilities with the Dominion, the Klingons and the Borg as seen in Deep Space 9 and Star Trek: First Contact.
The ship's design features the classic Star Trek configuration: a saucer section connected via a vertical "neck" to the stardrive section, with warp nacelles attached to the rear of the stardrive section via pylons. The Galaxy-class contrasts with previous starships (specifically the Constitution class starship), however, in that the saucer section is considerably wider than it is long (instead of perfectly round); the nacelles pylons are roughly half the height of the ship's neck (instead of the same height); and the entire ship is designed with an emphasis on forward-leaning arcs (instead of a basic geometry of straight and parallel lines).
16 comments:
this is pretty cool looking! Nice paint!
Thanks Pat.
What were some of the painting techniques you used to accomplish the panel detailing? I'm going to be painting the same model soon and haven't done it in years. Any pointers would be welcome.
Amazing paint job by the way.
xorkaya@gmail.com
Stephen - This is the new kit that comes with aztec decals. Is yours the new kit? If it is I would suggest you paint the parts their base colour first (do you have an airbrush?). The kit calls for a light ghost grey but I preferred a dark ghost grey making it closer to how it appeared in the movie Generations. To each his own. Your next step would be to paint the detail parts their colours, eg: the phaser banks, windows, etc (are you lighting the kit?). If not I would suggest using black and/or white Uniball pens. I chose all black with mine but I may add white windows in the future. If you're lighting the kit that's a whole different set of instructions. Next (and this is important) cover all major parts with Future wax available at any grocery or department store. A bottle is around $8 and will last you a lifetime. What Future does is apply a high gloss surface to your model. What this does is to help prevent any ghosting /silvering of the decals that may occur when they have dried. Apply Future before applying decals. Before applying the decals you will need from your hobby store a bottle of Microsol decal set (it smells like strong vinegar). Before applying a decal be sure to apply some decal set on the area of application before placing decal. What decal set does is soften the decal to allow a proper fit over contours plus it also helps in preventing silvering. When completely dry. cover in a flat or semi gloss coat. One more thing, before starting you may wish to sand off the aztec line ridges that are all over the model. These were used as guide lines for painting the aztec pattern on the model back in the day (1987). However with today's aztec decaling they are no longer necessary and besides the model looks much better without them. I hope this helps you. Any more question don't hesitate to ask.
Wonderful model!!!! I will be doing the 1701-D Generations version with painted lighting effects. I love details in painting. I painted the Enterprise D AMT ERTL kit years ago with all the tiny panels in various shades. It was great fun to do. I have been away from modeling for quiet a few years now so I want to get back into it. I have almost every Trek kit in storage. I brought out the Cardassian Galor Class and took some pics of it. It had been in storage all those years as well. If you are interested in seeing this ship as I did it, I can certainly send you some pics.
Thanks so much!
Randy Hobbs
North Carolina
Thanks Randy! Sure. When you get them posted send us a link. I hear they've just re released the Cardassian kit again.
I am working on getting my Cardassian ship pics ready to send to you. No special effects...just the model which was all hand painted.
I want to order the decals for the Enterprise D 1400 scale model. I like the decals you used on your ship. My decals are all old in been in a non climate control storage so they are probably toast. I need the aztec paneling ones as well as the life boat and other ship marking decals. Can you direct me to where to get them?
Thanks,
Randy G Hobbs
Cardassian Galor pics sent via my Gmail to your email.
-Randy
Randy -
Round 2 are the ones that sell the aztecs that I used. You can probably order them from your local hobby shop.
http://round2corp.com/product-category/licensed/star-trek/
You also may be able to find them at Federation Models as well.
http://www.federationmodels.com/
If you wish you can also print them off for yourself for free. Though you have to get your own decal sheet. They are different though. You have to look at them.
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/cz_mask.htm
Hi, I know it’s been awhile since there was activity on this page but I’m hoping to hear from you. I really love the look of your kit. In fact I think it’s actually one of the best I’ve ever seen of this particular kit and I’d love to replicate your base paint color and Aztec pattern since I have a couple of the Round 2 sets of D Aztecs laying around . Do you happen to remember what brand of dark ghost Grey you used for the base? Thank you!
Hi slipstream - If I recall it was Testors Model Master light ghost grey with a bit of medium grey tossed in to taste.
I've been getting away from model building for awhile. Too burnt out from it.
Instead I've gotten back into studying music.
But not to worry. I'll be back to model building again one day. I just don't know when.
Slipstream970- Thank you for your response! I had almost given up on hearing from you. Looks like we are going in opposite directions. I am trying to get back into modeling after many years away. Your Enterprise-D really inspired me to try to hone my skills again since I’m a big fan of that ship and built a couple back in the late 80s. Now that the Aztecs are available, I’m hoping to try to do some professional quality work. I have a last question if you have the time to answer...did you pen in the windows before or after applying the Aztecs? I’m not sure how translucent the Aztecs are and whether the back shows through the decals. Thank you if you can answer. I hope your music studies are fulfilling and I hope to see more of your modeling work in the future. You do great work. Thank you again for your answer. All the best!
Thanks Slipstream - As I recall I just used a very fine black felt marker for the windows after the decals were applied and a flat coat was applied. Make sure to used a decent decal set for the decals, as you want really good adhesion. I think I used Micro-Sol, though there are others. Just avoid Testors brand like the plague. If you have the clear plastic version, and intend on using lights, paint the outside all black first then paint your model. Then for the windows use a black marker for the unlit windows, and scrape out the windows you intend to light.
As I recall the decals were opaque.
Sorry for not responding sooner, but Google has decided not to send me comments for some reason. Even when I check the "Email follow-up comments" box.
So I have to go into my set up pages to find them.
Hi There, I have a very old model of this ship but the display base has gone missing and it seems to be impossible to get a new one....any sugestions?
Hi Doug, if you can't find one at a flee market somewhere, then may I suggest that you create your own.
I may have one Doug I'll check for you.
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